In the vibrant culinary landscape of Los Angeles, chef Eric Greenspan has unveiled Misha modern interpretation of the classic Jewish deli. Located in Mid City, this new establishment aims to bridge the gap between traditional Jewish cuisine and contemporary tastes. Greenspan, a James Beard Foundation finalist, has spent years honing his craft under renowned chefs like Alain Ducasse, Ferran Adria, and Joachim Splichal. However, Mish marks a significant departure from his previous ventures, as it delves deeply into his personal culinary memories and family traditions.
Greenspan’s journey with Jewish delis began in his childhood, with pilgrimages to iconic spots like Katz’s in Manhattan. He acknowledges the legacy of these establishments but believes they need an update to appeal to younger generations. “I’m cooking for 20-, 30-, and 40-year-olds and their kids—not 60-, 70-, and 80-year-olds,” he states. This perspective drives the innovative menu at Mish, which offers a blend of traditional and modern dishes.
Redefining Jewish Cuisine
The menu at Mish is a testament to Greenspan’s vision, featuring classic dishes like chopped liver, fried kreplach, matzah ball soup, and potato latkes. However, he adds a contemporary twist to these staples. For instance, the Reuben sandwich is griddled in schmaltz, and the chicken salad incorporates amba, a Middle Eastern condiment. Greenspan’s previous experience with deli cuisine includes a decade-old venture with Fleishik’s, a kosher deli in Los Angeles. His culinary resume also includes Mare, a seafood specialist in Silver Lake, and The Foundry, a New American restaurant on Melrose Avenue.
Mish’s menu extends beyond the Ashkenazi tradition to include influences from Mizrahi and Sephardic Jewry. Expect to find riffs on Persian frittata kuku sabzi, a variant of toad in the hole involving shakshuka, and sabich reconceived in bagel form. Greenspan’s pastrami rub brings in cardamom, and the hummus bowl is a nod to the broader diaspora of Jewish cuisine. The non-kosher menu runs the gamut of Jewish deli standards, offering a comprehensive dining experience.
A Culinary and Social Experience
In addition to its innovative menu, Mish features a serious cocktail program curated by noted barman Julian Cox. The program includes daytime matcha offerings in flavors like lemon halva with salted tahini cream and banana Einspanner with turmeric and saffron. Greenspan and his operating partner Bill Chait, who has worked on projects like Republique and Tartine, plan to open late, playing vinyl records on a DJ rig under the heading Bar Mitzvah. “Kind of like a Kibbitz Room situation,” Greenspan says, alluding to the venerable Canter’s deli annex.
Greenspan’s most high-profile project before Mish was consulting for the Tesla Diner in Hollywood. He describes the job as “the craziest fucking thing I’ve done in my time,” highlighting the logistics challenge under extreme public scrutiny. “Who wants to stand in the middle of a tornado and control it? I do. It’s about attention, emotion, effort, challenge,” he recalls. The diner opened as Tesla CEO Elon Musk took a hatchet to the federal government as a senior advisor to President Donald Trump, adding to the complexity of the project.
A Statement in Challenging Times
Opening a deli in 2026, amid a historic spike in anti-Semitism, may be perceived as a political act. Greenspan acknowledges this but sees it as an opportunity to celebrate Jewish culture. “People ask me, ‘Is now the time to do a Jewish restaurant?’ I say, ‘Now is exactly the time to do it,’” he states. He views Mish as a chance to “bring into the world, in my own way, what’s beautiful about Jews and Jewish life.” The deli is intended to be a center for community, bringing people together not just within the Jewish community but across broader societal lines.
Greenspan’s vision for Mish extends beyond its current location. He hopes to replicate the concept, creating more spaces where people can gather and enjoy the rich tapestry of Jewish cuisine. In doing so, he aims to foster a sense of community and shared experience, highlighting the enduring appeal of Jewish delis in a modern context.
