The world of costume design is a fascinating blend of artistry and logistics, where every stitch and color choice contributes to the essence of a character. This intricate craft was the focus of IndieWire’s Craft Roundtables, featuring renowned costume designers Sarah Evelyn, Trayce Gigi Field, Rudy Mance, Kathleen Felix-Hager, and Natasha Newman-Thomas. Moderated by Jim Hemphill, the panel delved into the creative and practical aspects of their work, offering a glimpse into the behind-the-scenes magic of Emmy-contending shows.
Costume design is not just about aesthetics; it’s a multifaceted profession that demands both creative vision and meticulous organization. The panelists highlighted the importance of managing time and resources, often overshadowed by their creative contributions. Sarah Evelyn emphasized the dual role of costume designers, stating, “In costume design, I wish we were just designers. But we also do have a big hand in the budget and the labor.” This duality is a constant challenge, as designers must balance their artistic instincts with the practicalities of production.
Balancing Creativity and Logistics
The designers agreed that their work is a delicate dance between creativity and logistics. Trayce Gigi Field noted, “It’s half organization and half creative. You’ve got to have that brain in order to make sure that everything is gonna happen when it needs to happen.” This dual responsibility requires a unique skill set, including budget management and effective communication with producers. Field added, “I love the creative part, if I only had to do the creative part, oh my God! But that’s not how it works. You have to understand your budget and you have to have the skills to go talk to a producer about money.”
Managing a budget is a critical aspect of costume design, often involving tough decisions about what can and cannot be achieved within financial constraints. The designers shared their strategies for making the most of their resources, from sourcing vintage pieces to repurposing existing wardrobe items. This practical approach ensures that the creative vision is not compromised by budgetary limitations.
The Evolution of Style in ‘Euphoria’
Natasha Newman-Thomas, the costume designer for Euphoriadiscussed the unique challenges of adapting the show’s style for its third and final season in 2026. The four-year gap between seasons presented an opportunity to explore the characters’ evolving identities. Newman-Thomas collaborated closely with showrunner Sam Levinson to understand what each character had experienced during that time, allowing her to dress them with greater specificity.
“I read the first several scripts, and then Sam and I put a whole day aside during preproduction to just dream together and talk about what happened in those five years and how it would inform their new identities as young adults,” Newman-Thomas explained. This collaborative process ensured that the costumes reflected the characters’ personal growth and changing circumstances.
Character-Driven Costuming
Newman-Thomas highlighted the importance of character-driven costuming, using Maude Apatow’s Lexi and Zendaya’s Rue as examples. Lexi’s style evolved naturally, reflecting her transition to a liberal arts college and her newfound interest in vintage fashion. “She probably went to liberal arts college and got really into vintage because someone told her how bad fast fashion is for the environment. And then she figured ‘Oh, I can express my individualism by buying pieces that nobody else can find,’” Newman-Thomas said.
Rue’s costume design was equally nuanced, reflecting her chameleon-like ability to adapt to different environments. “In my mind, she is just kind of collecting things wherever she goes and assimilates into that world,” Newman-Thomas explained. Whether in Mexico or Laurie’s workwear-adjacent world, Rue’s costumes subtly mirrored her surroundings without overpowering her character.
The complete panel discussion is now streaming on PBS SoCal, the PBS App, and various social channels, offering a deeper look into the art of costume design. This insightful conversation underscores the vital role that costume designers play in bringing characters to life on screen.
